Microneedling face - facts, results and scientific evidence | NSC

Microneedling is one of the treatments that has attracted the most attention in recent years - from professionals and social media alike. But between influencers with flawless skin and dramatic before-and-after images, it can be hard to separate fact from hype.

What does the science actually say? What can you realistically expect? And who is the treatment relevant for? Here is the evidence-based answer.

What is microneedling?

Microneedling - also known as collagen induction therapy (CIT) or percutaneous collagen induction - is a treatment where an instrument with fine needles creates thousands of microscopic punctures in the skin. These controlled micro-injuries trigger the skin’s natural healing response, which includes increased production of collagen and elastin.

The concept is simple: the skin responds to injury by repairing itself. By creating many minimal injuries in a controlled environment, we stimulate a comprehensive renewal process without causing real damage.

The instruments

Professional microneedling is typically performed with:

• The dermapen - an electric instrument with a cartridge of fine needles that oscillate rapidly up and down. The therapist can adjust the needle depth precisely.
• The dermaroller - a roller with needles that is rolled across the skin. Simpler technology, but harder to control the depth uniformly.

Most clinics today use dermapens because they provide more uniform penetration and better control.

Needle depths and what they reach

Needle depth is critical to what the treatment can achieve. The skin has different layers, and the depth of the needles determines which processes are activated:

0.25-0.5 mm (superficial) - penetrates the epidermis. Significantly improves product absorption (up to 80% according to studies), provides light skin renewal and a fresher complexion. Minimal downtime.

0.5-1.0 mm (medium) - reaches the upper layer of the dermis. Stimulates collagen production, improves fine lines, skin texture and mild pigmentation. Moderate redness for 1-2 days.

1.0-2.0 mm (deep) - penetrates deeper into the dermis. Targets acne scars, deeper wrinkles and striae (stretch marks). Requires more healing time - 3-5 days of redness and swelling.

2.0-3.0 mm (very deep) - reserved for specific indications such as deep, fibrotic acne scars. Performed only by experienced therapists and typically only on parts of the face.

The depth is always adapted to the individual client’s skin and treatment goals. The skin on the forehead is thinner than on the cheeks, so the therapist adjusts throughout.

What does the research say?

Microneedling is one of the better-documented cosmetic treatments. Let us look at the evidence for the most common indications:

Acne scars

Several randomised controlled trials and systematic reviews show that microneedling produces significant improvement in atrophic acne scars (the scars that sit as depressions in the skin). Studies typically report 50-70% improvement after a series of 3-6 treatments. It is particularly effective for rolling scars and boxcar scars, while deep ice pick scars respond less well.

Comparative studies have shown that microneedling is comparable to fractional laser for mild to moderate acne scars, with fewer side effects and shorter healing time.

Anti-ageing and wrinkles

Research confirms that microneedling increases collagen type I and III production in the dermis. Histological studies (where biopsies are taken before and after) show increased dermal collagen and reorganisation of elastin fibres 6 months after a treatment series.

Clinically, this translates to improved skin firmness, reduced fine lines and more even skin texture. The effect is gradual and cumulative - it builds over months.

Pigmentation

Studies show promising results for melasma when microneedling is combined with depigmenting serum (e.g. tranexamic acid or vitamin C) applied during or immediately after treatment. The open microchannels allow active ingredients to penetrate deeper and more evenly.

For post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (dark marks after acne or injury), results are likewise positive, particularly in darker skin types where more aggressive treatments such as laser carry a greater risk.

Stretch marks

Recent research shows that microneedling can improve the appearance of stretch marks, particularly newer (red/purple) stretch marks. Older, white stretch marks respond more slowly, but studies still document improvement in texture and colour after 4-6 treatments.

Realistic expectations

Let us be honest about what microneedling can and cannot do:

What you can expect:

• Gradual improvement over weeks and months (collagen production takes time)
• Visible results typically after 2-3 treatments
• Optimal effect 3-6 months after completing a series
• Improvement - not perfection. Acne scars get better, not invisible
• Generally fresher, firmer and more even skin

What microneedling cannot do:

• Completely remove deep wrinkles
• Replace a surgical facelift
• Deliver results after a single treatment (exception: increased glow and texture can be seen after the first session)
• Treat active acne (it can actually make it worse)

Number of treatments

For most indications the recommendation is:

• General skin renewal and anti-ageing: 3-4 treatments at 4-6 week intervals
• Acne scars: 4-6 treatments at 4-6 week intervals
• Pigmentation: 3-4 treatments at 4-week intervals
• Stretch marks: 4-6 treatments at 4-6 week intervals

Maintenance treatments 1-2 times per year are recommended to preserve results.

Who benefits most from microneedling?

The best candidates are people with:

• Atrophic acne scars (depressions, not raised scars)
• Early signs of ageing - fine lines, loss of skin elasticity
• Uneven skin texture and enlarged pores
• Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation
• Mild to moderate sun-damaged skin
• Stretch marks (particularly newer ones)

Microneedling is also suitable for all skin types and skin tones, which is an advantage over certain laser treatments that carry a greater risk of hyperpigmentation in darker skin tones.

Contraindications

Microneedling should be avoided with:

• Active acne, rosacea or skin infections in the treatment area
• Keloid-prone skin
• Blood-thinning medication
• Uncontrolled diabetes
• Active herpes simplex
• Use of isotretinoin within the past 6 months
• Pregnancy

A thorough consultation before treatment ensures that you are a good candidate.

Aftercare

The first 24-48 hours after microneedling are critical:

• Do not touch the skin unnecessarily for the first 6-12 hours
• Avoid makeup for 12-24 hours (the pores are open)
• Use a gentle, fragrance-free moisturiser - the skin is sensitive
• SPF 30+ is mandatory for the following weeks
• Avoid retinol and exfoliating acids for 5-7 days
• Skip swimming, sauna and intense exercise for 24-48 hours

The redness resembles a mild sunburn and typically fades within 24-48 hours for medium depths.

Professional treatment vs. home rollers

An important point: dermarollers bought online for home use (typically 0.25-0.5 mm) are not the same as professional microneedling. Home rollers can improve product absorption and provide light exfoliation, but they do not reach the depths that stimulate genuine collagen production.

Professional treatment with correct technique, sterilised equipment and adapted needle depth delivers results that home treatment cannot match. Additionally, the risk of infection and scarring with home treatment is real, particularly if the equipment is not properly sterilised.

Try microneedling with us

At Nordic Skin College’s student clinic we offer microneedling performed by students under direct supervision from experienced skin therapists. We use professional equipment, sterile single-use needles, and adapt the treatment to your skin after a thorough consultation.

Have questions about what microneedling can do for your skin? Book a personal skin analysis and consultation, and we will assess together whether the treatment is relevant for you. Microneedling is often combined with other treatments such as AHA fruit acid treatment and LED light therapy for optimal results. Want to learn to perform microneedling professionally? See our cosmetology and skin therapy programme.