Chemical peel treatment - types, results and aftercare | Nordic Skin College

Chemical peeling is one of the most effective treatments for skin renewal, and it has been used in cosmetology for decades. Yet there are many misconceptions about what the treatment involves and who can benefit from it. Some imagine red, peeling skin for weeks on end. Others believe it is only relevant for serious skin concerns. The truth is more nuanced.

In this guide we cover what chemical peeling is, which types exist, what happens during the treatment itself, and who makes a good candidate.

What is a chemical peel?

A chemical peel is a controlled exfoliation of the skin using acids. The therapist applies a solution of specific acids to the skin, which breaks down the bonds between dead skin cells in the epidermis - and in some cases deeper layers. As the old skin cells loosen, the skin’s natural renewal process is stimulated, and new, fresher skin emerges.

It sounds dramatic, but most chemical peels are mild and well tolerated. The key is choosing the right type and strength for the individual skin.

The three types of chemical peel

Chemical peels are categorised by depth, and each type has its own area of application.

Superficial peel (AHA/BHA)

The mildest form of chemical peel works in the outermost layer of the skin, the epidermis. The most commonly used acids are:

• Glycolic acid (AHA) - derived from sugar cane, effective for general skin renewal and smoothness
• Lactic acid (AHA) - milder than glycolic acid, well-suited to sensitive skin
• Salicylic acid (BHA) - oil-soluble, penetrates into the pores and is ideal for blemish-prone skin
• Mandelic acid (AHA) - large molecular size gives slower penetration and less irritation

A superficial peel takes 15-30 minutes. The skin may feel slightly tight and become pink for a couple of hours after the treatment, but most people can resume normal activities the same day. This type typically requires a course of 4-6 treatments at 2-4 week intervals for optimal results.

Medium peel (TCA)

TCA peeling (trichloroacetic acid) works deeper and reaches the upper layer of the dermis. It is markedly more effective than superficial peels for treating:

• Moderate acne scars
• Pigmentation changes such as melasma
• Fine lines and wrinkles
• Sun-damaged skin

During a TCA peel, the acid is applied in one or more layers depending on the desired depth. The skin turns white (frosting) during application, which indicates protein coagulation in the skin. The treatment takes 15-20 minutes, but healing takes longer: expect 5-7 days of flaking and redness. It is not a treatment to book the day before an important meeting.

Deep peel (phenol)

The most intensive form of chemical peel. Phenol peels penetrate deep into the dermis and can produce dramatic results for deep wrinkles, pronounced sun damage and severe scarring. This type is performed rarely and only by doctors under monitoring, as it requires sedation or local anaesthesia and has a healing time of several weeks.

In cosmetology practice, we work primarily with superficial and light medium peels.

What happens during the treatment?

Let us follow a typical chemical peel treatment step by step:

1. Consultation and skin analysis

The therapist assesses your skin, discusses your goals and determines which type of peel is appropriate. Your skin type, any medication, sun exposure and previous treatments all play a part.

2. Skin preparation

The skin is thoroughly cleansed of makeup, oil and impurities. Some clinics use a degreasing solution to ensure the acid penetrates evenly.

3. Acid application

The therapist applies the peeling solution with a brush, gauze pad or cotton applicator. You typically feel a tingling, warm sensation - the intensity depends on the acid’s strength. With superficial peels it is mildly uncomfortable. With TCA peels the sensation is stronger but short-lived.

4. Neutralisation or removal

Depending on the acid type, it is neutralised with an alkaline solution or removed with water after the desired contact time. Some peels (such as salicylic acid) are self-neutralising.

5. Finishing care

The skin is treated with soothing serum, moisturiser and always sun protection. You receive detailed aftercare instructions to follow at home.

Who benefits from a chemical peel?

Chemical peeling can help with a range of skin concerns:

Acne and acne scars - Salicylic acid peels reduce active acne by cleansing the pores in depth. Medium peels can improve superficial scars by stimulating collagen production.

Pigmentation and uneven skin tone - Glycolic acid and TCA are effective at reducing sun spots, age-related marks and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation.

Fine lines - Regular superficial peels or a single medium peel can smooth skin texture and reduce fine lines, particularly around the eyes and mouth.

Uneven skin texture - Rough skin, enlarged pores and a dull complexion respond well to chemical exfoliation.

Keratosis pilaris - The small bumps on upper arms and thighs can be improved with AHA peels.

Contraindications - who should avoid chemical peeling?

Chemical peeling is not for everyone. The treatment is not recommended for:

• Active herpes simplex (cold sores) in the treatment area
• Open wounds or active inflammation
• Pregnancy and breastfeeding (for medium and deep peels)
• Use of isotretinoin (Accutane) within the past 6-12 months
• Very dark skin with medium/deep peels (risk of post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation)
• Keloid tendency
• Recent radiation therapy in the area

Your therapist should always review your full medical history before a peel.

Aftercare - what you need to know

The first days after a chemical peel are crucial for the result. Good aftercare reduces the risk of complications and optimises healing:

• Sun protection is non-negotiable. Use SPF 30+ daily for at least 4 weeks after the treatment. New skin is extremely sensitive to UV radiation, and sun exposure can cause lasting pigmentation.
• Avoid active ingredients (retinol, AHA, BHA, vitamin C) for 5-7 days after the treatment.
• Moisturise, moisturise, moisturise. Keep the skin well cared for with a mild, fragrance-free moisturiser.
• Do not pick at the flaking. Let the skin peel naturally - picking at it increases the risk of scarring and pigmentation changes.
• Avoid exercise, sauna and swimming for 24-48 hours (sweat and chlorine can irritate).

Realistic expectations

A single superficial peel gives a fresher, more radiant appearance, but significant changes require a course of treatments. For acne scars or pigmentation, 4-8 treatments are typical, often combined with a good home care regime.

Results build up gradually. The collagen production stimulated by the treatment continues for 4-6 weeks after each session. This means the full effect is only visible weeks after the last treatment.

Try a chemical peel in our student clinic

At Nordic Skin College’s student clinic at Kongens Nytorv, our students perform chemical peels under close supervision from experienced teachers. This means professional treatment at favourable prices - and you contribute to the training of future skincare professionals at the same time.

Our AHA fruit acid treatment is a good starting point for most people, and can be supplemented with diamond microdermabrasion with AHA for a more intensive exfoliation. Want to know if a chemical peel is right for your skin? Book a personal skin analysis and consultation at our student clinic, where we assess your skin and create a plan. Considering working professionally with chemical peels? See our cosmetology and skin therapy programme.