Acne treatment at a cosmetologist - types, causes and solutions | Nordic Skin College

Acne is the most common skin condition in the world. It does not only affect teenagers - adult acne is extremely common, particularly in women in their 20s and 30s. Yet there is still a great deal of misunderstanding about what acne actually is, what drives it, and when you should seek professional help.

This guide gives you a thorough understanding of acne and the treatment options available - both what you can do yourself and what a professional cosmetologist can offer.

What is acne, really?

Acne is a chronic inflammatory skin disease that occurs in the skin’s sebaceous glands and hair follicles. The process follows a predictable pattern:

1. Increased sebum production - the skin produces more oil than normal
2. Hyperkeratinisation - dead skin cells clump together and block the pore opening
3. Bacterial growth - Cutibacterium acnes (a bacterium that lives naturally in the pores) multiplies in the anaerobic environment
4. Inflammation - the immune system reacts, causing redness, swelling and pus

Acne types

Not all acne is the same. Understanding your type is essential for choosing the right treatment:

Comedones (non-inflammatory acne)

• Open comedones (blackheads): The pore is dilated, and the oxidised sebum on the surface is dark. It is not dirt - it is oxidation.
• Closed comedones (whiteheads): The pore is closed beneath the surface. They appear as small, skin-coloured bumps. Often a precursor to inflammatory acne.

Papules Red, raised bumps without visible pus. They are inflamed but not mature. Do NOT squeeze - it worsens inflammation and increases the risk of scarring.

Pustules The classic “spots” with yellow/white pus at the top. Inflammation has created a pus collection close to the surface.

Nodular/cystic acne Deep, painful lumps beneath the skin with no visible “head.” This is the most severe form and the one most commonly leading to permanent scarring. Cystic acne almost always requires dermatological intervention.

What triggers acne?

Acne is multifactorial - there is rarely a single cause. The most important triggers:

Hormones

Androgens (male sex hormones, which all genders produce) stimulate sebum production. This is why acne flares during puberty, and why many women experience worsening around menstruation, when changing contraceptive pill, during pregnancy or in perimenopause.

Stress

Cortisol (the stress hormone) increases sebum production and worsens inflammation. Many people experience breakouts during stressful periods - exams, job changes, personal crises. It is not imagined; it is physiology.

Diet

Research is still ongoing, but dairy products and foods with a high glycaemic index (white bread, sugar, white rice) appear to worsen acne in some people. This is likely due to insulin-like growth factor (IGF-1), which stimulates the sebaceous glands.

Wrong products

Comedogenic ingredients in skincare and makeup can block pores. Excessive cleansing with aggressive products can damage the skin barrier and paradoxically worsen acne. And skipping moisturiser because the skin is oily leads to compensatory overproduction of sebum.

External factors

Phones against the cheek, dirty pillowcases, touching the face, tight-fitting masks - anything that pushes bacteria into the pores or creates friction can trigger local breakouts.

Professional approach vs. self-treatment

What you can do yourself

A good home routine is the foundation of all acne treatment. The basic principles:

• Gentle cleansing morning and evening - over-cleansing is a classic mistake
• Salicylic acid (BHA) 2% as a leave-on exfoliant - dissolves sebum in the pores
• Niacinamide 5-10% - reduces inflammation and regulates sebum production
• Light, non-comedogenic moisturiser - yes, even oily skin needs hydration
• SPF daily - many acne products make the skin sun-sensitive, and sun-induced inflammation worsens post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation

What home treatment cannot do

Home care addresses the surface, but does not reach the deeper mechanisms. Professional treatments can:

• Mechanically cleanse pores in a way you cannot do yourself (without causing scarring)
• Apply stronger acid concentrations under controlled conditions
• Use devices that affect bacteria and inflammation at a cellular level
• Adapt the treatment from session to session based on the skin’s response

Nordic Skin College’s treatments for acne

In our student clinic we offer an arsenal of acne treatments that can be combined into an individually tailored programme:

Chemical peel

Professional chemical peels use acids at higher concentrations than home products - typically glycolic acid 20-50%, salicylic acid 20-30% or mandelic acid. They remove the top layer of dead skin cells, open clogged pores and reduce bacterial counts. At NSC we offer, among others, AHA fruit acid treatment, which specifically targets acne, pigmentation changes and rough skin texture.

How it works: The acid is applied in a thin layer and neutralised after 2-10 minutes depending on type and strength. You feel a tingling sensation. The skin may be slightly pink for 1-2 days, and mild flaking may occur over 3-5 days.

Expected course: 4-6 treatments at 2-3 week intervals typically deliver marked improvement in comedones, texture and superficial acne.

Blue LED light (415 nm)

Blue LED light kills C. acnes bacteria by activating photosensitive porphyrins in the bacteria. It is painless, has no downtime and works as an effective supplement to other treatments.

How it works: You lie for 15-20 minutes under an LED panel with blue light. No heat, no pain. Often combined with red light (630 nm) in the same session to reduce inflammation.

Expected course: 8-12 sessions over 4-6 weeks. Best as part of an overall treatment plan, not as standalone for moderate-to-severe acne.

Deep cleansing facial treatment

A professional deep cleanse goes far beyond what you can achieve at home. It includes steaming, enzymatic softening, manual extraction of comedones and blemishes, soothing mask and finishing LED. For adult acne we recommend our Purus deep cleanse with light, and for teenage skin there is a targeted deep cleanse for teen skin.

How it works: Your therapist uses sterile instruments and correct technique to clear pores without damaging the surrounding tissue. This is the technique most often attempted at home with poor results - because incorrect extraction spreads bacteria deeper and creates scarring.

Expected course: Every 3-4 weeks during active acne periods, then monthly maintenance.

Correct extraction technique

It is worth emphasising: professional extraction and “squeezing spots at home” are two very different things. Our students learn the precise angle, pressure and timing. They learn when a comedone is ready for extraction and when to leave it alone. Incorrect extraction is one of the most common causes of acne scarring.

Realistic timelines

One thing that many acne sufferers need to hear: it takes time. The skin cell cycle is 28 days. Even the best treatment rarely shows dramatic results in under 4-6 weeks.

A realistic timeline for moderate acne under professional treatment:

• Week 1-2: The skin may briefly worsen (purging) - this is normal
• Week 3-4: First improvements in inflammation and new breakouts
• Week 6-8: Visibly reduced acne, fewer new breakouts
• Week 10-12: The skin looks markedly better
• 3-6 months: Maintenance and work on post-inflammatory marks

Patience is not a virtue - it is a requirement. And consistency beats intensity: a moderate routine you maintain for 12 weeks outperforms an aggressive routine you abandon after two.

Cosmetologist or dermatologist - when should you go where?

To the cosmetologist when:

• You have mild to moderate acne (comedones, papules, pustules)
• Your acne is hormonal and responds to topical treatment
• You want to prevent and maintain
• You have post-acne issues (pigmentation, uneven texture - not deep scars)
• You need guidance on home care and product selection

To the dermatologist when:

• You have nodular/cystic acne (deep, painful lumps)
• Your acne is leaving scars
• You have tried consistent professional treatment for 3+ months without sufficient improvement
• You are considering Isotretinoin (Accutane)
• You have acne combined with other symptoms (irregular menstruation, hair loss) that may indicate hormonal disorders

A good cosmetologist knows when to refer onward. And a good dermatologist recognises that the cosmetologist’s ongoing skincare treatments supplement medical treatment.

Home care between professional treatments

What you do between clinic visits is at least as important as the treatments themselves. Here are our recommendations:

Do:

• Follow the routine your therapist recommends - consistently
• Change pillowcases at least every three days
• Keep your phone clean, or use a headset
• Keep your hands away from your face
• Be patient and document with photos (same light, same angle)

Avoid:

• Introducing new products without discussing it with your therapist
• Squeezing, picking at or touching active blemishes
• Using five active ingredients simultaneously in an attempt at faster results
• Stopping treatment because the skin looks better after 4 weeks - maintenance is the key
• Googling yourself into anxiety - acne forums are full of misinformation

Professional acne treatment at student-friendly prices

At Nordic Skin College’s student clinic at Kongens Nytorv we offer acne treatments performed by our students under supervision from experienced educators. Prices are significantly lower than at private clinics, and the quality is professionally grounded. Many of our acne clients come regularly every 3-4 weeks and experience gradual, lasting improvements.

Have you struggled with acne and not received sufficient help from products alone? Book a time for a personal skin analysis and consultation at the student clinic. We assess your acne, create a treatment plan and give you concrete recommendations for your home routine - so you get a cohesive effort that actually works. Want to learn to perform these treatments yourself? Read more about our cosmetology and skin therapy programme.